Hyperpigmentation Breakdown: Causes, Types, and Brightening Ingredients That Work

The uneven distribution of skin pigment, referred to as hyperpigmentation, is a common dermatological concern and an indicator of skin aging. In fact, some cultures perceive faces with fewer dark spots as more youthful than faces with fewer wrinkles.

Melanin

Melanin is a natural pigment that is primarily responsible for skin, hair, and eye colour. Melanocytes are the primary producers of melanin throughout the body. When the skin is subjected to specific intrinsic or extrinsic factors, relevant signaling factors promote an increase in melanin synthesis. Newly formed melanin is packaged into protective transport vesicles called melanosomes. Melanosomes localize at the ends of the melanocytes’ finger-like projections, called dendrites, and enter neighbouring keratinocytes (cells that make up the outermost skin layer).

Types and Causes of Hyperpigmentation

Sunspots

UV (sun) exposure is a major contributor to increased or redistributed pigmentation in the skin. Prolonged sun exposure can trigger enhanced melanin synthesis by increasing melanocyte counts, melanin synthesis, and the transport of melanosomes to keratinocytes. Sunspots, also referred to as solar lentigines, are scattered light brown to black pigmented spots that are linked to chronically sun-exposed skin.

PIH

Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is an acquired pigmentary problem that occurs upon inflammation of the skin. Common causes of PIH include acne, eczema, contact dermatitis, sunlight, and friction. In people of colour, PIH is one of the most common complications of procedures that use laser. Skin injury and inflammation result in the release of eicosanoids (powerful mediators of inflammation), which stimulate melanocyte growth and melanin production. Epidermal (upper layer) PIH is typically light to dark brown, while dermal (lower layer) PIH is typically grey to black.

Melasma

Melasma is an acquired hyperpigmentation disorder that predominately affects sun-exposed facial areas. Melasma is a chronic, relapsing disorder, thus visual improvement is frequently transient and requires maintenance. Melasma is not only about hyperactive melanocytes due to sun exposure or skin injury, as it also involves complex hormonal signaling and genetic predispositions. Fluctuating estrogen and progesterone levels are implicated in the onset or exacerbation of melasma; these fluctuations are typically associated with pregnancy or hormonal birth control. Genetic influence is evidenced by familial clustering and the increased prevalence of melasma in certain ethnic populations. The presentation of melasma typically includes symmetric brown to grey patches, rather than scattered pigmented dots. The three types of melasma, epidermal, dermal, and mixed reflect which layer of the skin features excess pigmentation.

Ingredients that Help Brighten Skin and Reduce Hyperpigmentation

Oftentimes, a multi-therapy approach is needed to treat hyperpigmentation. Topical treatments contain effective skin whitening agents from both natural and synthetic sources. Ingredients used in topical treatments include niacinamide, kiwifruit extract, kojic acid, tranexamic acid, hydroquinone, and arbutin.

Niacinamide

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that has been used in skincare for its anti-hyperpigmentation/anti-aging applications. Niacinamide reduces hyperpigmentation by inhibiting the transfer of melanosomes from melanocytes to keratinocytes. Niacinamide simply prevents existing pigment from spreading to the top layers of the skin, it is not implicated in harsh skin-bleaching. Niacinamide is a popular ingredient due to its several other benefits including skin barrier strengthening, sebum (oil) production regulation, and anti-inflammatory effect.

Kiwi Fruit Extract

Kiwifruit has numerous digestive and metabolic health benefits because it is nutrient rich. Studies have shown that kiwifruit extract has an inhibitory effect on tyrosinase, which is the rate-limiting enzyme responsible for melanin synthesis, and the transfer of melanosomes to keratinocytes.

Kojic Acid

Kojic acid is an antioxidant used in topical treatments to inhibit the rate-limiting tyrosinase enzyme. Kojic acid is an effective treatment for hyperpigmentation because it interrupts the pigment-making process. Since kojic acid specifically targets melanocytes, it does not bleach the skin.

Tranexamic acid

Tranexamic acid is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine. It is primarily used to reduce bleeding during trauma treatment, surgery, or dental procedures. However, it can also be used in hyperpigmentation treatment to block the interaction of melanocytes and keratinocytes and reduce the production of melanocyte stimulators.

Hydroquinone

Hydroquinone is a depigmenting agent used to treat various hyperpigmentation disorders. The mechanism of action of hydroquinone involves tyrosinase inhibition and melanosome distribution inhibition. Skin irritation, redness, and discolouration are reported as side effects of hydroquinone use. Currently, hydroquinone is banned in many regions outside the United States, including Japan, Australia, and the European Union.

Arbutin

Arbutin is a botanical extract obtained from the leaves of specific plant species, like cranberry. By mimicking tyrosine (the substrate of tyrosinase), arbutin competitively inhibits melanin synthesis.

Interested in Treating Hyperpigmentation?

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